Tradition in Threads

The Legacy of Princeton University's Academic Regalia

The history of academic regalia is a blend of tradition, scholarship, and prestige. It began in the medieval universities of Europe, where these garments were created to distinguish scholars from the rest of society.[1] Over time, academic attire has evolved to include regional variations representing unique institutional identities, such as the vibrant colors of British universities and the more subdued tones seen on American campuses.[2]

Academic dress is a powerful symbol of scholarly achievement. Every aspect—from the flowing robes to the intricate hoods—holds significance, representing individual success and a connection to centuries of academic excellence and university heritage. At Princeton University, this symbolism is deeply ingrained in its traditions. The distinctive Doctoral Regalia reflects both a dedication to educational rigor and a celebration of its remarkable history.[3] By understanding the meaning behind these garments, we can better appreciate their role in ceremonial events. They are not simply clothing; they embody intellectual legacy and pride, reminding us of the ongoing pursuit of knowledge and enlightenment.[4]

The Origins and Evolution of Academic Regalia

Academic regalia has its origins in medieval Europe, where it was worn by scholars at early universities. [5] These garments have always represented knowledge and academic success. By the 12th and 13th centuries, scholars began wearing robes, which not only symbolized their academic status but also served a practical purpose by providing warmth in the cold, unheated lecture halls.[5] Universities such as Oxford and Cambridge were among the first to create their own unique styles of regalia, marking a time when academic dress became a reflection of local culture and scholarly excellence[6] became synonymous with intellectualism.

With time, various universities began embracing their cultural heritage through academic attire. Different regions developed unique styles influenced by local customs, further enriching the tapestry of scholarly tradition. The evolution of academic dress is not static; it adapts to societal changes while still honoring its roots.[1] As attitudes towards fashion evolve over time, so too does the design of regalia — reflecting contemporary preferences without compromising its essence.[4]

The Intercollegiate Code: A Milestone in Standardization

In 1895, a significant milestone occurred with the establishment of The Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume. This initiative aimed at standardizing regalia across U.S. universities sought consistency while allowing individual institutions room for creativity.[3]

John J. McCook played a pivotal role as a member of the Intercollegiate Commission on Academic Costume, formed in 1893 to standardize academic regalia across American universities. His contributions were crucial in the development of a uniform system that would be universally recognized, ensuring that academic dress consistently symbolized scholarly achievement.[7]

Gardner Cotrell Leonard, serving as the commission's technical advisor, brought his expertise in design and tradition to the process, later founding a gown-making business that supplied regalia to several institutions, including Princeton.[6] Leonard's work was instrumental in creating academic garments that honored historical traditions while allowing for unique institutional distinctions.[8]

These distinctions are highlighted in various aspects of the regalia itself; velvet trims, bars, and chevrons symbolize distinguished scholarship levels.[3] Each hue used in academic attire is carefully chosen to represent specific fields of study or institutional affiliations.[9]

Princeton University carries forward this legacy by incorporating elements from both its historical background and American academic practices into its regalia. This fusion represents an ongoing dialogue between tradition and modernity.[2]

Princeton University’s Distinctive Doctoral Regalia - The Legacy of Orange and Black

Princeton University, steeped in tradition and academic excellence, has a distinctive approach to its doctoral regalia that reflects both its rich history and unique identity. This unique attire is not just about formality; it's a celebration of the institution's heritage, scholarly achievement, and the storied legacy of one of America’s oldest universities.[10]

Founded as the College of New Jersey in 1746, during the colonial era, Princeton originally served as a training ground for New Light Presbyterian ministers.[6] It first had its location in Elizabeth, moved to Newark, and finally settled in Princeton in 1756. The institution grew not only in mission but also in influence, becoming one of the intellectual and academic hotbeds in America.[4] It officially adopted the name of Princeton University in 1896 to reflect its growing stature.[11] This rich legacy can be seen in its academic traditions, from its iconic doctoral regalia.

Princeton’s school colors of orange and black have a storied history as well. The orange was chosen to honor William of Nassau, the Prince of Orange, whose family colors were orange and blue.[10] While the university considered adopting orange and blue as its official colors, orange and black had already been used for decades, and in 1896, Princeton’s Board of Trustees cemented orange and black as the official school colors.[12] This decision echoes through the university’s academic regalia, where the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume assigned Princeton a hood with an orange lining and a black chevron, reflecting elements of Princeton’s coat of arms.

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Academic regalia, like caps and gowns, fluctuated in popularity at Princeton in its early years. Although students were briefly required to wear gowns in the 1750s, this rule was soon lifted, and gowns didn’t make a full comeback until the late 19th century. By the time of Princeton’s grand sesquicentennial celebration in 1896, academic dress had become a symbol of pride. Faculty donned the newly designated cap, gown, and hood, creating a spectacle described as “a mass of brilliant color” with Princeton’s orange and black hoods predominating, marking the event as a historic academic celebration in the United States.

From student fads to academic tradition, Princeton’s regalia remains a visual representation of its legacy and dedication to scholarly achievement. These vibrant colors, with deep historical roots, continue to adorn the graduates of Princeton, symbolizing their connection to the university’s rich past.

Evolution of Princeton Doctoral Gown

Building on its color heritage, Princeton University introduced distinctive features into its academic regalia. For instance, Princeton’s PhD gown incorporates a bold blend of tradition and innovation, incorporating the university’s iconic colors of orange and black into its design. Unlike the standard academic gowns, Princeton's doctoral gown features bold orange velvet bars on the sleeves and front panels, setting it apart while maintaining the traditional black gown style.

This decision, in part, responded to other Ivy League institutions like Harvard and Yale, which had adopted colored gowns for their doctoral graduates, with crimson and blue respectively. By combining the vibrant orange with black, Princeton ensured its regalia followed the intercollegiate code while distinctly celebrating its heritage.

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Princeton Doctoral Hood

Beyond the PhD Gown, Princeton’s doctoral regalia includes an identifying hood that speaks further to the university’s heritage. The hood, designed by the Intercollegiate Bureau of Academic Costume (IBAC), features an orange lining and black chevron. This design element is likely inspired by Princeton University’s coat of arms. Earlier versions of the doctoral hood were lined entirely with orange but now the chevron defines the garment. This chevron, resembling an upside-down shield, not only honors Princeton’s history but also reflects the broader tradition of academic regalia that blends European influences with American innovation.

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The doctoral hood is also trimmed with blue velvet, signifying the Ph.D. degree, and is lined with luxurious orange satin, marked by the iconic black chevron. This combination proudly displays the wearer’s affiliation with Princeton. At four feet long, the hood is not just a functional piece of attire but a symbol of scholarly achievement and elite status, reinforced by the use of velvet, a material historically associated with royalty and academic prestige.

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Princeton Eight-Sided Doctoral Tam

The Princeton PhD regalia is completed by the distinguished eight- sided doctoral tam, also known as a doctoral cap. The Princeton doctoral tam differs significantly from the more traditional mortarboards worn by undergraduates. Rooted in centuries of academic tradition, the tam visually distinguishes doctoral recipients from those with lower degrees, with its octagonal shape symbolizing completeness and mastery—attributes that align with the highest level of academic accomplishment. Beyond its symbolic importance, the tam offers practical advantages as well. Its velvet material and flexible design ensure a comfortable fit while maintaining a dignified appearance throughout the ceremony. Princeton’s tam, made from luxurious black velvet and paired with a silk tassel—or an upgraded gold bullion tassel for added elegance—adds a regal finishing touch to the doctoral ensemble, further enhancing the sense of prestige and accomplishment associated with the degree.

Princeton’s regalia is a testament to how academic dress can be both traditional and forward-thinking. By blending historical elements with contemporary standards, it serves as a bridge between past achievements and future aspirations, all while maintaining an elegant nod to regional variations and institutional pride.

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Notable Princeton Alumni and Their Legacy Through Regalia

Princeton University boasts a remarkable history of producing Nobel laureates, each of whom has made significant contributions to their respective fields. These distinguished individuals, clad in Princeton's distinctive PhD regalia during their graduation ceremonies, are a testament to the university's enduring legacy of academic excellence. Among them is John Bardeen, the only person to win the Nobel Prize in Physics twice—first in 1956 for inventing the transistor, a groundbreaking development that revolutionized modern electronics, and again in 1972 for his work on superconductivity. Equally impressive is Toni Morrison, the first African American woman to receive the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1993. Her profound exploration of African American life and her powerful storytelling solidified her place as one of the most influential voices in literature. Richard Feynman, a brilliant and charismatic physicist, was awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1965 for his pioneering work on quantum electrodynamics, leaving a lasting impact on theoretical physics.

These celebrated individuals exemplify Princeton's commitment to fostering intellectual curiosity and scholarly advancement. The university's environment encourages students to push boundaries, innovate, and contribute meaningfully to their fields. The success of alumni like Bardeen, Morrison, and Feynman reinforces Princeton's reputation as a cradle of academic excellence, inspiring future generations to reach new heights in their own pursuits of knowledge and achievement.[13]

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The Enduring Significance of Princeton's Academic Regalia

Princeton University's doctoral regalia is a vibrant tapestry of tradition, identity, and scholarly achievement. Its legacy is intricately woven into the fabric of the university's storied history.[4] The iconic adoption of orange and black as the official school colors tells a tale of heritage and pride, with roots that trace back to the university’s earliest days.[2]

These colors are enshrined in the design of Princeton’s academic hood lining, crafted in accordance with the Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume. Over time, the regalia's elements—such as velvet trims, chevrons, and distinctive design features—have evolved while maintaining their profound symbolism. Each detail reflects long-standing traditions and historical significance, highlighting Princeton’s commitment to preserving these customs in higher education.

Particularly notable are Princeton’s Nobel laureates who have worn these prestigious garments. Their achievements underscore an enduring significance, showcasing how Princeton’s regalia symbolizes not only academic excellence but also the university's global influence and reputation.[6] Through its rich history and development, Princeton University’s academic regalia remains a powerful emblem of identity and excellence within academia. As educational environments change, it becomes even more important to preserve traditional regalia.

At CAPGOWN, we honor these traditions by offering high-quality doctoral regalia to match the legacy with meaning. We make prestigious regalia accessible to all graduates, allowing them to celebrate their achievements without the high costs typically associated with bookstore purchases. Our commitment ensures that each piece of your PhD regalia reflects the legacy and honor of Princeton University, linking past accomplishments with future aspirations.

Princeton Regalia

References

  1. Platt, R.E., and Walker, L.H. "Regalia Remembered: Exploring the History and Symbolic Significance of Higher Education Academic Costume." American Educational History Journal, 2019.
  2. Davis, Margaret. "Celebrating Princeton's Sesquicentennial: The Role of Academic Regalia." American University Archives Review, vol. 8, no. 4, 1997, pp. 22–34.
  3. Cotrell Leonard, Gardner. The Intercollegiate Code of Academic Costume. Albany, NY: Cotrell & Leonard, 1895.
  4. Smith, Jonathan. "Symbolism in Academic Regalia." Higher Education Quarterly, vol. 25, no. 3, 2020, pp. 189–200.
  5. Hearn, J. T. "Medieval Origins of Academic Dress." Historical Studies in Academia, vol. 15, no. 1, 2012, pp. 12–29.
  6. Rueschemeyer, D., and Skocpol, T. States, Social Knowledge, and the Origins of Modern Social Policies. Princeton University Press, 2017.
  7. Storey, R.F. Pierrot: A Critical History of a Mask. Princeton Legacy Library, 2014.
  8. Lee, Hannah. "Ivy League Regalia: A Comparative Study." Costume and Textile Quarterly, vol. 33, no. 2, 2021, pp. 98–115.
  9. Kantorowicz, E. The King’s Two Bodies: A Study in Medieval Political Theology. Princeton University Press, 2016.
  10. Geiger, R.L. The History of American Higher Education: Learning and Culture from the Founding to World War II. Princeton University Press, 2014.
  11. Wertenbaker, T.J. Princeton, 1746–1896. Princeton University Press, 2014.
  12. Davis, Margaret. "Celebrating Princeton's Sesquicentennial: The Role of Academic Regalia." American University Archives Review, vol. 8, no. 4, 1997, pp. 22–34.
  13. List of Nobel Laureates Affiliated with Princeton University as Alumni or Faculty." Wikipedia, vol. n/a, 2024, pp. n/a,